Invited talk from Dr. Juliana Exel

Dr. Juliana Exel was invited to participate as a speaker in the Lecture Series organised by Prof. Matthias Kempe at the University of Groningen. In the presentation “Unlocking the betas of performance in climbing with human movement sciences”, she talked about the role of biomechanics in supporting the assessment, diagnostics, and prescription of one of the most important predictor of climbing ability: finger flexors strength and endurance. 

Additionally, she contextualised these aspects with a focus on the key scientific evidence across various climbing disciplines, genders, and ability levels. Dr. Exel also shared insights from her ongoing research with the Neuromechanics Research Group in the field and present to the audience the primary challenges in enhancing the efficacy of biomechanics in uncovering climbing performance.